Amongst Pinot producers, there is an old adage, often discussed late into the evening: “Barrel aging maketh the wine”. The micro-oxygenation which occurs very slowly through the inch-thick oak staves mellows the wine and can turn unruly or even stroppy and aggressive tannins into a silky and seductive texture that rounds out and gently supports the fruit.

The palate stands like a beacon of hope in the garden of a stately manor. A classic razor strop and cigar box complexity is omnipresent as it glides back and forth amongst oven-baked wild oats, dark sticky prunes, and sun-dried beef jerky. The tannins, which sit somewhere between rhubarb crumble and central plateau pumice, lightly flagellate the tongue while a tiny streak of acidity adds freshness and focus, like the resounding rap of gravel on the bench of a high court judge. There follows the suggestion of marmite on sourdough toast, soft roasted aubergine, rubbed oregano, and warm caramel brûlée. A sense of calm, like still waters, runs deep in the finish.

Martinborough  Alc 13%